Oh, no, Ozzy is fine for whatever - I thought you said 'he' and I was thinking - hmmm, looks pullet like to me"
Oops I did - I said guy, but “this guy” was sort of a catchall in my head and I didn’t even think that this site would interpret in a “hen or roo” type of way 😂 My bad. I went and edited that post.
 
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Wattles!

20250713_125139(1)(1).jpg
 
Also, what size screws to fasten 2x2s
I primarily use deck screws for all of my building that way I can disassemble if necessary. I vary the length of screw based upon what I am connecting. With 2x2s it is important to drill a pilot hole before using a deck screw or you can split the board. I also would use deck screws with OSB.
 
I'm not going through the rest of the thread to see if others have made the same points, so am posting a video soon to cover any SHRA.

Also I'm jotting down thoughts quickly and don't mean to be curt or harsh.

Door:
You want a door that the measurement is 29 1/2" wide and the height is 70". This is because you have a door frame already there that is solid, can hold the hinges, etc., and these are the accurate inside measurements to butt up to that, right?

You can cover one side of this door with one 4'x8' piece of plywood. I would suggest 1/4" plywood, especially if you are doing two sides. This is going to be really heavy with 1/2" plywood, even on one side.

I question your intention to insulate: it makes good homes for mice and mites and you might be ripping off one side at some point to get at and treat them. If you are looking for the cross-bracing qualities of plywood, then at least use corner braces and save the weight. These kinds of doors can warp and flex along the front and back dimension a lot too, where one corner or the other wants to bend toward the opposite corner. This can interfere with the window and pop door fit. You could put in diagonal braces.

Would a Dutch door work, where you hardware-cloth the top part on the inside, and attach a hinged piece of plywood, either on a frame or not, to the outside door frame as a cover? The entire upper part of the door works as a window.

2x2's:
I would suggest 2x2 corner braces on each corner of your door frame, having worked with a ton of 2x2's myself you will really appreciate the diagonal bracing, even little pipeces work really well, see this video, a guy building a coop door

You need to account for 2x2's not being fully dimensional. They aren't even 1.5" at times though that's what one plans for. So your measurement of 25 1/2" for the top of your window, means 22 1/2" or less for the bottom inside 2x2.

I don't have time right now to add up the wood needed and check that, sorry. I can see you need 20 feet of 2x2's just for the outside framing and my recommendation of 2x2 corner bracing.

You want to go through and then halfway in to what you're screwing to. So with 1.5" 2x2's you'll want 1.25" self-tapping wood screws with 1/2" ply (.75" + .5"), or 1" with 1/4" ply.

Whatever you do I think you should plan and build the whole door, THEN cut out for the window and pop door when you make them. For instance - if you do put in corner braces then those might move your pop door in a few inches. So once it's all there you can see what you're working with.
:goodpost: I agree with her thoughts.

I have used 2x2s with 1/4 plywood to make 1/2 sized doors and it works fine for that, but I have not done it for a full sized door.
 
Something like this?

View attachment 4180875

And something like this?View attachment 4180876

Note: I checked the window and it's a really odd double paned slide, 40some odd inches along the slide x upper 20s the other way....all wood frame, including the slide...and filthy enough to have to slide it apart to clean the glass. I'm not sure the wood will even slide anymore. Might be simpler to groove some new wood for the panes of glass....If I had a router....do 2 windows and save them for the coop build.
Maybe run a field sobriety test on that pencil, it seems to not make a straight line! 👮‍♀️ :gig
 

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