Fluffy Butt Acres: Stories of our flock

[knoturavggrl]

Monday Mugshots from Babs and Piglet.
Have a lovely Monday everyone.

View attachment 3547877View attachment 3547878

Piglet posed just perfectly, she seems to know how pretty she is

 

[featherhead007]

I know, right? I think he trains his ladies, or keeps a broom by the doorway…

My chooks don’t poop, and my farts don’t stink! ( DB Kellogg )

 

[notabitail]

Mugs Monday.
Smile, humans!

Do not worry. She was paid. I talked her down from her price of ten mealworms to approximately two.

 

[featherhead007]

I think Piglet is saying "Full-figured women can be beautiful, too! Don't you just LOVE my demur head cock????"

(I'm even batting my eyes - but that darn nictating membrane doesn't have the same effect as human's eyelids!)

“That look has an effect on me! But I’m a rooster so……. “

 

[Pastel the Rooster]

UNH Extension service advise on Bumblefoot

Youtube video of non surgical bumblefoot treatment

Please do start treating right away! The longer it goes untreated, the worse it gets and the less likely you are to cure it.

The UNM bulletin mentions treating with anti-biotics, but I am not sure about that. I know that there are resistant Staph bacteria - maybe @BY Bob would know IF you should, and with what if it is a 'yes'

Thanks, I'll do that as soon as possible.

 

[bgmathteach]

Bookmarked, thanks, BG!

Note that there were a couple of errors in there (typos) I thought I fixed them, but I see they are showing in your reply. The 2 pieces that form the pop door top/bottom are 11.5" (not 1.5!!!), and there is a ' instead of a" mark somewhere.

Note also: I had not made the separate 'coop/nestbox' area because I had made it for a breeding coop ('coop' for 2 hens and a rooster - and used an attached run - so I elevated the nest boxes.

Regardless, without the 'enclosed' area, I had plenty of space for roosts - so there are roosts in there - I put an extra upright across from the pop-door upright and have a roost about 10" off the ground in mine (again, mine used 30" high wire - but for brooding purposes (and better use of 8' long lumber) 24" wire is better. You could easily put a 'short roost' by putting a branch or extra piece of lumber across the pen and fasten it to the top of the base (so it would be about 3.5" off the ground.

I'm glad you liked it. I want to build another, as it is GREAT for separating broodies (so they don't get kicked out of nest boxes by others!) and in the early stages of her raising the chicks safely, but without truly separating/isolating them from the flock!

I am toying with making the next one bigger ( using 10' lumber for the base), but 3x7, while bigger, is not the best size for the lumber used, but if I make it 4' wide, I can't reach across and grab a little one on the far side from the top - especially since I will continue to make it 30" high so I can have an elevated roost and can then use it for breeding pairs/trios too, not just broodies. 7' long also makes it a bit more difficult to maneuver in the current run. Once it gets expanded those extra 5'...it shouldn't be as bad, though. Well...while I DO want another one, atm I have too much other stuff on my plate - so I guess I'll cross that bridge when I actually get to it!

Sorry for the rambling.....it actually helps to 'say it out loud/type it to think through these things!

 

[bgmathteach]

I do need to update the primer with poor Betty's end.

 

[ManueB]

Speaking of that, I've been meaning to ask opinions/input. I'm doing my annual 'check the chicken first aid kit' (for full stocking & to replace anything that may have expired)

Below is what it contains - any suggestions? @BY Bob @RoyalChick @Ponypoor (and anyone else who has some knowledge/experience in this area! (list is in no particular order, btw)
Rubbing alcohol (used to sterilize things - before and after)
Hydrogen Peroxide
Betadine
Alcohol Wipes (in case I need to sterilize something on the fly)
Blue Kote
Drawing Salve
Coconut oil
Epsom salt
Essential oils (therapeutic grade): (these have other general health benefits - listed are just for 'first-aid purposes)
Lavender (antiseptic antinociceptive, anti-inflammatory)
Rosemary (anti-inflammatory)
Peppermint (anti-fungal, anti-viral)
Clove (anti-microbial, numbing agent (for pain)
Oregano (anti-bacterial, possible anti-inflammatory)
Note: these can't be used 'straight', I use coconut oil as a carrier oil.
Sm container of ant-acid tablets ( for quick calcium)
B-vit. Complex
Scissors, Tweezers, Toe Nail Clippers, Metal nail file
Q-tips
gauze pads (sterile - assorted sizes) & rolled gauze
Single use super glue packages
wound sealer (basically, a powder used for severely bleeding wounds - I bought a set for my first aid kit and put 1 in the chicken's )
sm. container of corn starch
triple anti-biotic ointment
vet wrap (lots!, ha, ha)
water-proof tape
scalpel & sterile blades
tongue depressors & popsicle sticks
Anti-bacterial hand wipes
disposable gloves
a few bandaids (such as knuckle ones) and some steri-strips
'Suture' kit (100% cotton thread, curved needle & straight needle)
Magnifying glass (my eyes are getting bad)

Low dose Aspirin, liquid children's ibuprofen
pedialyte, nutri-drench. + my own mix of powdered electrolytes (that I usually add honey to when I mix up)

Chicken wash cloth
[All of the above are in a small plastic tool box I can take with me]


Not in the kit, but also available:
Human amoxicillin
Chicken towels
A 5-pack of dog pee pads (great to use when doing something messy - clean up easier!)

Dish pan ( to soak feet, etc. JUST FOR CHICKEN USE)
Plastic dog crate for isolation if needed
Permethrin (just have what was left (lots!) from last year's mite offense)

I think that is everything I have (though I might have missed something - I'm doing it from memory)

Is there anything glaring I am missing? something you find helpful I should consider?


I know @BY Bob recommends having baytril on hand - ?do I need this since I have amoxicillin (i.e. are there times I should use one instead of the other?)

Note: I use pumpkin seeds for worming!

Thank you for any helpful input!

Edited to add: Yes, I have a hair dryer available, also - Thanks @featherhead007 !

Very interesting ! Thank you for the discussion.
Since you use eos, not sure if you can find it easily in the US, I use ravintsara (the cineol chemotype of cinnamonum camphora) for respiratory issues.

I would add Vitamin K, the antidote to all anticoagulant rodent poisons (which are the only type used here). Comes in useful if a hen eats a poisoned mouse !

Yes, you need Baytril. There are many bacteria that amoxicillin does not treat.

You also need an anaerobic antibiotic like tylosin. I have a combination antibiotic, amoxy-tyl for my anaerobic coverage.

I don't see a real dewormer. I would have another dewormer beyond pumpkin seeds.

Syringes
Feeding tube
Liquid Calcium
Corid for coccidia
Ophthalmic antibiotic
Probiotics
Chlorhexidine spray and gel

I opened my kit to check. I also have Endo blend (CBD) for chronic pain.

I have two possibly "sensitive" questions. I'm not asking for opinions on whether it's a good thing or not as it would lead us into an endless debate . I would however be very interested and grateful if some of you have scientifically valid information.

First, as you probably know in my country it's impossible to have antibiotics for animals at home. The vet will only prescribe the exact number of pills you need for the animal you brought. Now, I'm fully aware no other substances have the same antibacterial effects as antibiotics and I am not in the least discussing this. My question is whether any of you have scientific information on products that could be interesting to use for their antibacterial action when you don't have antibiotics, even if they are far less efficient? I use oregano essential oil in some specific cases but it's very strong and I would certainly not give it to a very sick chicken, or to a chick.

(How do people handle this in my country? Well either they go to the vet or they use natural mixture of products available commercially. This is also true for AG operations, where the use of antibiotics is a last resort for layers, and forbidden for meat poultry. )

My second question is in regard to CBD. We were very late approving it's use for medical reasons compared to some of the US states, just last year. I understand that for humans, it's also used as a confort treatment for anxiety. Do any of you know if this is also the case for animals, and more especially for our chickens, or has it's use only been validated as a pain killer ?

I would find it very useful to have something that could help the chickens with stress as it has such a serious impact on their health.

Thank you all and hope you have a great Monday !

 

[bgmathteach]

Yes which is why I haven’t used it any further than a couple years ago when they were just really running amok. Didn’t want to risk any of my chickens or other animals.

I am not so worried about them getting outside and dying as they tend to stay around their tunnels and homes. But my chickens are at risk.

They are so bad when I haul a bale of hay from the loft, mice run out from under the bales darn creatures.

I still want to do a bucket trap when I get a chance.

Bucket trap should work well for mice. Rats learn from ones demise and rarely do you get another. With all of my attempts, I never got more than a total of 3 with any one kind of trap! Mice are not 'communal' in the way rats are, and don't pass knowledge from one to another the same - so traps continue to work repeatedly for them (as long as you remove the dead fairly quickly.)

 

[RoyalChick]

Baking soda only kills them if they ingest enough - when it mixed with their stomach acid, 'bubbles up/expands with gas, and presses against their lungs (suffocating them). However, they won't easily eat baking soda on their own - due to the basic nature of it, it will give them a bit of a burn in their mouth if it is straight,

take a container (peanut butter jar cover is great for this)that has been cleaned (i.e. so it doesn't have human scent on it) and with gloves on place it just outside the chicken run* with food for them (peanut butter, tuna fish, scratch feed, whatever), And LEAVE it for a few days (check daily to see if they start eating it) Once they don't 'fear' it and start eating from it, start mixing baking soda with whatever you have been putting out. Again, USE GLOVES! Rats have a VERY GOOD sense of smell....and they are also very wary of new things - hence the wait period.

Once you have the rat population under control, sprinkling heavily baking soda around the coop & run will help deter them (they do clean their paws, so will lick some from their paws when cleaning them, and will learn to avoid that area IF THEY AREN"T ALREADY LIVING THERE!. Rats are smart, and learn...and because they live in colonies (unlike mice) also learn from/teach each other.

SO: I would also consider using a variety of different traps for Rats. (such as a couple of different types of snap traps.) Also set out with 'food' for them OUTSIDE the chicken run, and NOT SET for a couple of days. Then, the same time you start mixing Baking soda with the other food, also start setting them with the bait. Multi-pronged approach simultaneously.

You could also set out glue traps at the same time as actually setting the other traps live - surrounding their holes so they 'have to' step on them. Again, these only work once or twice, also. The rats soon leaner to scratch dirt on them and 'neutralize' them. Most rat glue traps come in pairs that are glue side together. Since they are so warry, you might want to put them out during the 'desensitization phase - as they are/not separated, so they get accustomed to the smell of the glue traps, but they are, at that point, harmless.

Any one of these things will not work alone...and they ALL need to be done so the rats get accustomed to them (3-5 days) - before deploying them in 'harmful' mode!

Trust me - I did not do this, and am suffering the consequences!

I would be so hesitant to use poison - because if your chickens (or your dog or any dog or cat) then eats the dead rat, it will kill them! (Just ask Alex! Poor @featherhead007 has lost a couple of chooks to neighbor throwing poisoned mice into his yard!

Best of luck!

If these don't work, it might be less expensive in the long run to pay shipping for dry ice. If you don't get them ALL, they can fully repopulate in only 8 weeks!

*Note, you might want to put it inside some kind of wire protection - something they can fit through, but that something larger like a raccoon, can't, so you don't start feeding other things!)

I was thinking the exact same thing - the cost of a protracted war against rats may not be as economical as paying for dry ice shipping.

So far, after the first rat infestation I have got away with getting rid of the junk they were nesting in. The ones I destroyed I managed to get with the RatZapper by leaving it out and with bait for several days and then switching it on for a couple of nights and then moving it and doing the same thing.
I also used my cameras to figure where they were coming and going.