Official Squatch Watchers

[rjohns39]

I had DW do that to our head roo, when he was still young. it worked...

 

[Redhead Rae]

This is the best article I've read on rooster training, and I've personally used it for years. I have to admit, the only time I've had to use it was on teenage cockerels. They tend to go through a period where they've got more hormones than good sense, but quickly get over it when I use this method. Hope it helps.


I'm going to give you a clue on "rooster speak"....holding him down doesn't mean anything to him. If you'll watch how roosters interact between dominant ones and subordinate ones, there is rarely any, if ever, holding a bird down for a long time when there is an altercation. There is very quick flogging, gripping by the back of the head and flinging him away or getting him down and giving some savage pecking to the back of the head or neck. No holding him down and nothing else. That's a rooster on a hen maneuver, not rooster on rooster.

Because your rooster is attacking you, you are the subordinate in this picture. You are getting dominated by your bird simply because you are walking where a subordinate isn't supposed to be walking when a dominant is in the area. What you never see is a dominant rooster getting attacked by a subordinate rooster unless there is going to be a definite shift in power, at which time the sub will challenge the dom and win...or lose. So far you are losing and not even challenging.

If you want to win this battle, you must go on the offensive, not the defensive. He who attacks first, and is still claiming the area when the other guy leaves it, is the winner. Some people never have to go on the offensive because their movements in the coop are so decisive that they move and act like a dominant and a 2 ft. rooster is smart enough to recognize a dominant attitude and behavior...which is likely why he's never attacked your husband. Most men move more decisively than do women and children and they rarely step around a bird, but walk through them.

Carrying him around also doesn't mean anything to him...it just doesn't translate at all. His environment is that coop and run floor and that's where you need to speak to him, in a language he understands. Because they are quick on their feet and can evade you, you need a training tool like a long, limber, supple rod of some kind...cutting a nice switch from a shrub or tree that will lengthen your reach by 5 ft. really helps in this. Don't use a rake or broom because they are too clumsy and stiff and can put the hurts on the guy when you don't really mean to.

When you enter your coop, walk with decisive movements and walk directly towards your rooster. Move him away from the feeder and the rest of the flock and keep a slow, determined pressure on him until he leaves the coop. The stick will help you guide him. Then...wait patiently while he gets his bird mind around what just happened. He will try to come back in the coop...let him. When he gets a good bit into that coop, take your switch and give him a good smack on the fluffy feathers under his tail if you can aim it well. If you cannot, just smack the floor near him very hard and fast until he hops and runs and keep at it until he leaves the coop once again. Repeat this process until he is too wary to come back in the coop.

Feed your hens. When he tries to come to the feeder, you "attack" him with the switch...smack the wall by the pop door just as he tries to enter. If he makes it inside, pursue him with the stick either smacking the floor or tapping him on the back or the head until he leaves in a hurry. Make him stay outside while you sit there and enjoy watching your hens eat. Use the stick to keep him from the flock..just him. Don't worry about the hens running and getting excited when this is happening...they will get over it. This is for the future of your flock and your management of it.

When the hens have had a good tucker....leave the coop and let him come back in. Go out later and walk through that flock and use your legs to scatter birds if they get in your way...top roosters do not step to one side for any other bird in the flock. You shouldn't either. Take your stick and startle him with a smack on the floor next to him when he is least expecting it...make that bird jump and RUN. Make him so nervous around you that he is always looking over his shoulder and trying to get out of your way. THAT'S how he needs to be from now on in your lives together. Forget about pets or cuddles...this is a language and behavior he understands. You can hand feed him and such later...right now you need to establish that when you move, he moves...away. When you turn your back, he doesn't move towards you...ever.

Then test him...take your stick along, move around in the coop, bend over with your back turned to him, feed, water, etc....but keep one eye on that rooster. If he even makes one tiny step in your direction or in your "zone", go on the attack and run him clear on out of the coop. Then keep him out while everyone else is eating.

THAT'S how a dominant rooster treats a subordinate. They don't let them crow, mate or even eat in their space. If the subordinate knows his place and watches over his shoulder a lot, he may get to come and eat while the other rooster is at the feeder...but he doesn't ever relax if he knows what is good for him. At any given time the dominant will run him off of that feed and he knows it, so he eats with one eye toward the door. If he feels the need to crow, it's not usually where the dom can reach him...maybe across the yard.

If your rooster crows while you are there, move towards him and keep on the pressure until he stops. He doesn't get to crow while you are there. He can crow later...not while you are there.

It all sounds time consuming but it really isn't...shouldn't take more than minutes for each lesson and you can learn a lot as you go along. And it can be fun if you venture into it with the right attitude....this is rooster training that really works if you do it correctly. This can work on strange roosters, multiple roosters and even old roosters...they can all learn. You rule the coop...now act like it. Carrying is for babies...you have a full grown rooster on your hands, not a baby.

We have 4ft chicken hooks that we use to catch birds that don't want to be caught (by the leg). It works best on full grown birds with large legs. I have a hard time catching my leghorn cross girls with their skinny little pencil legs with it. I used to carry that with me any time I would walk in the flock for a while when the main flock roosters were young.

I think I need to train some of my Delaware pullets. They are very comfortable with getting up in my business and pecking me hard if I'm not fast enough with delivering treats. I'm actually reconsidering keeping the breed because of this bossy behavior. Although I have to say, the balance of power has shifted in the last week. Since I put the eggs in the incubator, I've set my Dominique and Dom cross hens free in the flock and they've been teaching the younger pullets some manners. I think the Delaware pullets are too big to be taught lessons by the leghorns and have gotten used to pushing the other birds around, particularly the Buffs. The only Buff that really stands up to them is my Mama Buff and that is only when her babies are involved. My Dom and Dom cross hens are big enough and sure enough in their positions in the flock that they pushed all the pullets away from the scraps bucket on the first afternoon that they weren't separated from the main flock.

 

[Molpet]

This is the best article I've read on rooster training, and I've personally used it for years. I have to admit, the only time I've had to use it was on teenage cockerels. They tend to go through a period where they've got more hormones than good sense, but quickly get over it when I use this method. Hope it helps.


I'm going to give you a clue on "rooster speak"....holding him down doesn't mean anything to him. If you'll watch how roosters interact between dominant ones and subordinate ones, there is rarely any, if ever, holding a bird down for a long time when there is an altercation. There is very quick flogging, gripping by the back of the head and flinging him away or getting him down and giving some savage pecking to the back of the head or neck. No holding him down and nothing else. That's a rooster on a hen maneuver, not rooster on rooster.

Because your rooster is attacking you, you are the subordinate in this picture. You are getting dominated by your bird simply because you are walking where a subordinate isn't supposed to be walking when a dominant is in the area. What you never see is a dominant rooster getting attacked by a subordinate rooster unless there is going to be a definite shift in power, at which time the sub will challenge the dom and win...or lose. So far you are losing and not even challenging.

If you want to win this battle, you must go on the offensive, not the defensive. He who attacks first, and is still claiming the area when the other guy leaves it, is the winner. Some people never have to go on the offensive because their movements in the coop are so decisive that they move and act like a dominant and a 2 ft. rooster is smart enough to recognize a dominant attitude and behavior...which is likely why he's never attacked your husband. Most men move more decisively than do women and children and they rarely step around a bird, but walk through them.

Carrying him around also doesn't mean anything to him...it just doesn't translate at all. His environment is that coop and run floor and that's where you need to speak to him, in a language he understands. Because they are quick on their feet and can evade you, you need a training tool like a long, limber, supple rod of some kind...cutting a nice switch from a shrub or tree that will lengthen your reach by 5 ft. really helps in this. Don't use a rake or broom because they are too clumsy and stiff and can put the hurts on the guy when you don't really mean to.

When you enter your coop, walk with decisive movements and walk directly towards your rooster. Move him away from the feeder and the rest of the flock and keep a slow, determined pressure on him until he leaves the coop. The stick will help you guide him. Then...wait patiently while he gets his bird mind around what just happened. He will try to come back in the coop...let him. When he gets a good bit into that coop, take your switch and give him a good smack on the fluffy feathers under his tail if you can aim it well. If you cannot, just smack the floor near him very hard and fast until he hops and runs and keep at it until he leaves the coop once again. Repeat this process until he is too wary to come back in the coop.

Feed your hens. When he tries to come to the feeder, you "attack" him with the switch...smack the wall by the pop door just as he tries to enter. If he makes it inside, pursue him with the stick either smacking the floor or tapping him on the back or the head until he leaves in a hurry. Make him stay outside while you sit there and enjoy watching your hens eat. Use the stick to keep him from the flock..just him. Don't worry about the hens running and getting excited when this is happening...they will get over it. This is for the future of your flock and your management of it.

When the hens have had a good tucker....leave the coop and let him come back in. Go out later and walk through that flock and use your legs to scatter birds if they get in your way...top roosters do not step to one side for any other bird in the flock. You shouldn't either. Take your stick and startle him with a smack on the floor next to him when he is least expecting it...make that bird jump and RUN. Make him so nervous around you that he is always looking over his shoulder and trying to get out of your way. THAT'S how he needs to be from now on in your lives together. Forget about pets or cuddles...this is a language and behavior he understands. You can hand feed him and such later...right now you need to establish that when you move, he moves...away. When you turn your back, he doesn't move towards you...ever.

Then test him...take your stick along, move around in the coop, bend over with your back turned to him, feed, water, etc....but keep one eye on that rooster. If he even makes one tiny step in your direction or in your "zone", go on the attack and run him clear on out of the coop. Then keep him out while everyone else is eating.

THAT'S how a dominant rooster treats a subordinate. They don't let them crow, mate or even eat in their space. If the subordinate knows his place and watches over his shoulder a lot, he may get to come and eat while the other rooster is at the feeder...but he doesn't ever relax if he knows what is good for him. At any given time the dominant will run him off of that feed and he knows it, so he eats with one eye toward the door. If he feels the need to crow, it's not usually where the dom can reach him...maybe across the yard.

If your rooster crows while you are there, move towards him and keep on the pressure until he stops. He doesn't get to crow while you are there. He can crow later...not while you are there.

It all sounds time consuming but it really isn't...shouldn't take more than minutes for each lesson and you can learn a lot as you go along. And it can be fun if you venture into it with the right attitude....this is rooster training that really works if you do it correctly. This can work on strange roosters, multiple roosters and even old roosters...they can all learn. You rule the coop...now act like it. Carrying is for babies...you have a full grown rooster on your hands, not a baby.

Beekiss method... this works

 

[pitbullmomma]

I hope @pitbullmomma interview went well..... c'mon tag in and let us know!!!!

It went awesome, I'm pretty sure I nailed it!! Best interview I think I ever did.
If they don't hire me I would be shocked. Keep your fingers crossed guys....this job is closer, starts *an hour and a half later* (I am NOT a morning person) and has way better staffing. YEAH BABY!!!!!

 

[staceyj]

It went awesome, I'm pretty sure I nailed it!! Best interview I think I ever did.
If they don't hire me I would be shocked. Keep your fingers crossed guys....this job is closer, starts *an hour and a half later* (I am NOT a morning person) and has way better staffing. YEAH BABY!!!!!

Good for you!
Yay!!!!!!!!

 

[staceyj]

@FlyingNunFarm ,

I admire you.

Don't fall for it -even though you are a person with a good heart.
If he's a cheater cheater pumpkin eater,
You don't need or deserve that in your life.
Somewhere out there,
is a good man with a kind heart who will love and cherish you (and your chickens!)
Have faith!

 

[Smuvers Farm]

@FlyingNunFarm farmersonly.com .... just sayin'

SMUV!!!! Do they have a website??

Cappy is right, rareseeds.com ... but you should really order the catalog.... more fun to peruse..... PLUS you should see what they have posted on the cover this issue.... BEAUTIFUL super sweet atomic grape tomatoes! I wanna grow these even if I can't eat them!!!

@TexasSam @Sassysouth @Chickassan @Smuvers Farm @apryl29

He left a month ago. Didn't take long to realize what a huge mistake he made. He's not worth collecting the rat turds for!
Someone told me I should let him live in the chicken coop. I told them I wouldn't subject the chickens to that!

Your chickens are worth more than that sweetie.... so that makes you 100x worth more than that! We will support any decision you make.... maybe he went through a phase, maybe you'll forgive and forget..... there's a LOT of time and energy invested in that relationship... and we don't know your life... but if you want us to hate him, we certainly can hate him.....

 

[staceyj]

@FlyingNunFarm

Yes!- To what @Smuvers Farm said, honey.
We'll support you no matter what.
It IS your choice to make.
I just wanted to remind you of your WORTH in case he has made you doubt it because that happens sometimes.
NOT trying to tell you what to do...
it's funny, this friendgroup formed around chickens...
I feel protective about all of you.

 

[Rubysword]

Uhg. I feel pretty icky today. I'm thinking about doing crew, and tryouts were yesterday. They were pretty tough. One of our chickens, Jammer the silver laced wyandotte, is still not fully integrated. Her chick-mate, Nicole, is thriving with the rest of the flock, but Jammer is at the bottom of the pecking order and is losing weight quickly. She's just skin and bones. I'm going to try to feed her at least one egg a day, if I can catch her. She's also the only one not laying yet. Any suggestions?

 

[rjohns39]

Add a table spoon or so of canned pink salmon with the egg. The egg is about 12% protein, but has the perfect balance of amino acids to help her absorb nutrients. The salmon is loaded with protein and chocked full of vitamins. Also, If you don't already, make sure you have at least two feeders and waterers as sometime the bully won't let the others use theirs.